Gerald Genta

Gérald Genta: The Designer Behind Some of the Most Important Watches

When it comes to icons in watch design, one name consistently rises to the top: Gérald Genta. Known as the “Picasso of watchmaking,” Genta shaped the very definition of luxury timepieces in the 20th century. He was a designer — not a traditional watchmaker — yet his influence on horology is unrivaled. From the industrial elegance of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, to the nautical grace of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, to the bold gold architecture of the Rolex King Midas, Genta’s fingerprints are found across some of the most sought-after vintage watches in the world.

Born in Geneva in 1931, Genta studied jewelry and goldsmithing before entering the watch industry. His eye for proportions, symmetry, and storytelling set him apart. At a time when most watches were designed with function first, Genta introduced emotion, geometry, and architecture into horology. He once said: “I want my watches to be recognisable from across the room.” And he succeeded — spectacularly.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Ref. 5402ST) is legendary. In 1971, Audemars Piguet asked Genta to design a steel sports watch that would redefine luxury — and they wanted it the next day. Inspired by a deep-sea diver’s helmet, Genta designed the Royal Oak overnight. Released in 1972, it shocked the industry: a luxury watch in steel with visible screws, priced above many gold watches. Key features include a 39mm stainless steel case, octagonal bezel with exposed screws, integrated bracelet, and ultra-thin automatic Caliber 2121. Today, early 5402ST models are grail-level pieces, especially those with the original “AP” dial logo at 6 o’clock.

Four years later, Genta repeated his success for Patek Philippe with the Nautilus (Ref. 3700/1). He reportedly sketched the design while dining at the Basel fair, inspired by ship portholes and flowing lines. Introduced in 1976, the first model, nicknamed “The Jumbo,” featured a slim design powered by the same movement as the Royal Oak. Key features include a 42mm steel case, rounded octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and horizontal grooved dial. It was positioned as a watch for the gentleman who could “wear his Patek while swimming” — a radical idea at the time.

Predating both the Royal Oak and Nautilus, Genta designed the bold and overlooked Rolex King Midas (Ref. 9630) in the early 1960s. Released in 1964, it was the heaviest gold wristwatch in the world at the time. Inspired by the Parthenon, the watch featured an asymmetrical, left-handed case in 18k solid gold. Key features include a 27mm x 28mm asymmetrical case, unique sloped design with crown on the left, manual-wind movement, and numbered casebacks. It became a cult piece after Elvis Presley received one from RCA for record sales, and collectors today are rediscovering its brilliance.

Other legendary Genta designs include the Universal Genève Polerouter (Ref. 20217-6, 1954), designed at just 23 for SAS pilots and the first watch with a micro-rotor automatic movement; the IWC Ingenieur SL (Ref. 1832, 1976), known as the “Jumbo Ingenieur” with a 40mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet; the Omega Constellation Manhattan (Ref. 398.0864, 1982), which introduced “griffes” (claws) to hold the sapphire crystal; and the Bulgari Bulgari (Ref. BB 33 GL, 1977), the first luxury watch with the brand name engraved on the bezel.

In the 1980s and ’90s, Genta released pieces under his own brand, Gérald Genta Genève, pushing design and technical boundaries. Notable models include the Grande Sonnerie, Gefica, Fantasy (featuring characters like Mickey Mouse with jump hours), Arena Bi-Retro, and Octo, which later evolved into Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line.

Gérald Genta passed away in 2011, but his legacy remains everywhere in watchmaking. His key traits — integrated bracelets, geometric bezels, ultra-thin movements, and sculptural lines — continue to inspire brands across the industry. Early reference models like the AP 5402ST, Patek 3700/1, and Rolex 9630 are foundational pieces in the history of design. Collectors increasingly recognize the value of lesser-known Genta works, which still represent opportunities in a market where Royal Oaks and Nautiluses have skyrocketed in price.

Gérald Genta didn’t just design watches — he changed the way watches were perceived. He blurred the line between utility and art, creating some of the most valuable, recognizable, and imitated watches in the world. Whether you're investing in a steel sports icon or uncovering a hidden gem like the King Midas, owning a Genta-designed piece is owning a chapter of watchmaking history.